(Paris) Models in short and sparkling outfits strolling in the middle of a lively bestiary at the ephemeral Grand Palais: Chanel did everything to break the bombastic side of a haute couture show on Tuesday in Paris.
Oversized sculptures representing deer, dog, bird, elephant or even camel were brought on their wheels to the parade stage from where the first models in white emerged.
They evolved in the middle of the menagerie made of wood, cardboard or paper in the spirit of a “spontaneous village festival”, according to the notes of the parade.
“I like when the marvelous arises and the course of things stops,” said Chanel artistic director Virginie Viard, explaining that the inspiration comes from Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment which includes a collection of objects , sculptures and drawings of lions, deer, stags and birds.
With this simple decor presented as recyclable, a new collaboration with the artist Xavier Veilhan, Virginie Viard has moved further away from the universe of her predecessor Karl Lagerfeld and her legendary fashion shows reproducing a supermarket, beach or alpine chalet more real than life. .
“I wanted to go for something immediate and direct, with lightness and fantasy,” said Xavier Veilhan.
Poetry of cheerleaders
The silhouette is leggy, youthful and easy to wear, with high fashion elements translating into exceptional embroidery.
The Chanel suit is worn with mini skirts or shorts. A nod to the decor, a jacket is adorned with an embroidered dog’s head. Structured dresses and coats are also short. Kittens and rabbits appear discreetly embroidered on tweeds.
This wardrobe borrows its codes from the female uniforms of the parade and the show.
Top hat, bow tie, white gloves, laced boots, satin cape, pleated skirt, double-breasted or peplum jacket, breastplates, sequins, short shorts, petticoat: it is “the poetry of the cheerleaders” that has inspired by Virginie Viard.
Long dresses have simple lines, sleeveless jumpsuits embroidered with flowers are an alternative for a dressy outing, but not too much.
These pieces playing with layers and transparencies, with ruffles, pleats and thin straps are available in silk tulle, taffeta, organza, georgette crepe and Chantilly lace.
White and black dominate with a few incursions of pink and blue.
Bowler hat and black or white bow tie worn on the neck and drawing the eye to the red mouth are the ultimate accessories for this spring-summer 2023 haute couture collection.
On the feet, two-tone boots with round toes, white-black or gold-black and with small heels.
If the staging breaks the codes of a haute couture show associated with voluminous dresses worthy of museums, vertiginous heels and slowed down rhythm, a great tradition is maintained: the wedding dress for the last look.
That of Chanel is in the spirit of the collection: short, close to the body, worn with golden ankle boots and a white bow tie with a veil embroidered with swallows, like the dress.