(Paris) With perfectly cut elegant pieces for the Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture show, French designer Haider Ackermann reminded us that fashion’s “enfant terrible” is above all one of the best tailors in history.
A black tail coat, matching narrow pants with classic stiletto heel pumps. This is the first look that sums up this collection made by Ackermann, the fourth guest stylist since Jean Paul Gaultier himself abandoned the profession in 2020.
Models with a sultry look follow each other slowly, stopping to better show the garment from all angles. In the ranks of the “waouh” escape while the parade takes place almost in silence.
“The aura around Gaultier is theater and sometimes we forget the essence of his work, the work that is so beautiful. I wanted to find what touched me” during Jean Paul Gaultier’s fashion shows, Haider Ackermann told the press.
Behind the scenes follow Catherine Deneuvre, Carla Bruni, Tilda Swinton, Inès de la Fressange or Rossy de Palma to congratulate him.
” What a beauty ! exclaims the Spanish actress and fashion icon. “We needed it Rossy,” replies Lou Doillon, who is waiting nearby.
The expectation was enormous to discover what would result from the fusion of universes as different as that of a flamboyant Jean Paul Gaultier with an overflowing imagination and the sensual refinement of Haider Ackermann, who signed the red bare-back jumpsuit worn at Venice by his friend, actor Timothée Chalamet.
Before this collaboration, “I would never have thought that we could mix our worlds to such an extent. But looking through the archives I realized there was a lot more in common than I had thought,” he said.
He did not revisit the marinière, iconic piece of Jean Paul Gaultier because his work “is much more than that”, he told AFP. “When you see all these well-cut suits in the archives, that’s what touches me.”
The pure line suits are legion, with trousers or long slit skirts. The conical-breasted bustier immortalized by Madonna is flattened, elegant and worn with khaki pants.
“I approached the legacy of Jean Paul Gaultier with love and pleasure,” said Haider Ackermann. “My ambition was to make Mr. Gaultier happy. If he is proud and happy tonight, I have won my bet. »
“I loved, loved, loved,” said Jean Paul Gaultier.