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The Saint Laurent woman wrapped from head to toe



(Paris) At the antipodes of his naked body aesthetic, Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello has constructed a silhouette that envelops the woman from head to toe like the costume of American choreographer Martha Graham in “Lamentation”.

To the sound of running water from the Trocadero fountain facing the Eiffel Tower, the very thin models perched on stiletto heels sported ultra-long silhouettes and covering their heads on Tuesday evening.

An aesthetic inspired by Martha Graham’s cult 1930 play about grief and suffering. Sitting on a bench and shackled in a long triangular jersey tube from which only the hands, feet and face emerge, she rocks and struggles, stretching the fabric.

For the spring-summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, the Belgian designer of the French house Anthony Vaccarello, in search of “refinement”, is fascinated by this visual which had already been exploited several times by Yves Saint Lawrence.

Long and often transparent dresses in jersey knit are worn as they are or are balanced with masculine pieces: wool coats with strong shoulders as well as bombers and leather trench coats.

Bottle green, ink, burgundy, mustard, caramel and the essential gold and black: the color palette is rich and sophisticated.

The legs are bare, enhanced by sandals that underline the contrast with the monumental line of the coats.

Pajama-inspired satin pieces bring casualness to the collection juxtaposed with a powerful effect of sculptural wooden accessories and gold jewelry.

The scenography of the parade around the fountains, allowing the silhouettes to be observed from all angles, reveals the fragility of the bare backs and the power of the broad structured shoulders.

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